One might not think that a move of, oh, a half a mile or so might make much of a difference to an already established restaurant. But a bigger space and a degree of enhanced visibility seem to have been just what Stone Werks needed; on two occasions the restaurant’s...
Lüke Brings New Orleans to the River Walk
To denizens of the Crescent City, chef John Besh must be the culinary equivalent of one of Japan’s National Treasures. Not only does he have several successful restaurants, but he has just come out with a second cookbook and is a frequent apostle of New Orleans (and...
Fleming’s Steakhouse
There’s something Mad Men retro about most steakhouses —whether they serenade you with Sinatra or simply shake a stylish martini. Or both. But as these are not boom times, we suggest a stratagem for struttin’ your own style at a reduced rate: Hit happy hour. This is...
Roaring Fork: Beef and pork entrees win applause
Opt for the bar, that’s our suggestion. The Roaring Fork main dining room seems better suited to groups and families, but the bar provides some good couples-scaled seating. Besides, if your waitress’s watch is running a tad late (wink, wink), you may just make it in...
Sandbar Fish House & Market
previous downtown location, Sandbar was much like a pilot fish in its symbiotic relationship to a shark — in this case, the larger and more laureled Le Rêve. Though it may have been a destination for many, it was equally likely to have been a fallback for those not...
Silo 1604 Doesn’t Disappoint
dining room at Silo 1604 is one of the city’s most effective restaurant spaces, especially at dusk, when it’s possible to experience the change from light and transparent to inner-focused and dramatic. For all of its sleek surfaces, the place is also acoustically...
Ilsong Garden Takes Korean Food to a New Location
It pays to shake things up. The usual MO for reviews is to take along people familiar with the cuisine in question; that way we can all bring varying degrees of perspective and expertise to the table. Literally. But occasionally it’s instructive (and fun, too, we...
La Gloria : Mexican street food comes to San Antonio
Street food vendors are a tradition the world over. Sometimes operating with little more than a pot over a pile of rocks, these seat-of-the-pants salesmen not only provide cheap meals on the run, but they also serve as a cultural touchstone, a kind of resistance...
Frederick’s Bistro: Dependable excellence is highlight of the menu
It’s 7 p.m. on a Wednesday evening, and Frederick’s Bistro is buzzing. We’re accorded one of the last two tables in a crowded dining room, and we sit down to wonder at the activity that some restaurants would find themselves fortunate to have on a Friday or Saturday...
Chama Gaucha: It’s a paradise for meat lovers
The first surprise was the name: it’s not pronounced as you might think. The second surprise was the popularity: the place was nearly full on a Tuesday night. The third surprise is the price: much less than you might imagine for all-you-can-eat. The fourth surprise...
Watermark Grill: Briny raw seafood, infused liquors highlight the menu
There's a palpable buzz in the air with Watermark Grill at near capacity. Its the kind of energy restaurateurs tend to love and at least some diners prefer to despair. We even needed to speak up to our utterly charming and accommodating waitress. But the noise level...
Opening the World of Sensory Pleasures: Fresh herbs lend their magic to food and drink
Brush past a rosemary bush and inhale its bracing perfume. Or rub the spiky leaves of lemon verbena between your fingers and enjoy their citrus scent. Fresh herbs have the capacity to open up a world of sensory pleasures, and their uses are infinite. Whether you love...
Dough Pizzeria Napoletana
least that's the way it looked on a recent Wednesday night at Dough Pizzeria Napoletana. At 7:30, the place was packed inside and out, and there was still a respectable crowd until after 9. It's just a pizza joint, you say, not an economic indicator? Show us a...
Two Bros. BBQ Market
wo Bros. BBQ Market, the penultimate offspring of Chef Jason Dady and his family (Insignia in the Fairmount Hotel being the most recent birthing), hit the ground running and has only improved. How’s that for a positive introduction? Can’t be the pits that are hitting...
Tre Trattoria: Tuscan menu is full of pleasures
We (the pretentious royal we) have never understood why nobody seems to eat out on Monday. Nevertheless it is the preferred down-day for both diners and chefs, so here’s a useful tip: When there’s a reputable restaurant open on Monday, by all means go. The kitchen...
Texas BBQ: Old-time favorites and the sides that go with them
Want to fire up a hot debate? Try defining the word barbecue. Now try running that by a Texan. Texans love to argue about barbecue, almost as much as they love to eat it. It's no surprise that Texans have developed their own unique brand of barbecue, but you'd be hard...
Greens, Revisited: Updated versions of an old favorite
In her book, Mediterranean Grains and Greens, celebrated cookbook author and culinary hunter-forager Paula Wolfert relates a telling Turkish folk story. She writes: “During the reign of Sultan Abdülhamud II (1876-1909), a doctor was appointed to a medical posting in...
Koi Kawa: Make mine Japanese!
It’s 7 o’clock on a Friday, and the sushi bar at Koi Kawa is buzzing with activity, while the dining room is still relatively empty -- except for dutiful Dining Companion, of course; she’s always early, and I’ve given up trying to break her of the habit. The early...